LABEL ANURAG GUPTA – The New Avant-Garde Voices Emerging from Lakmé Fashion Week
With the label set to present its latest collection at Lakmé Fashion WeekXFDCI this season, it offers a compelling lens through which to explore the new avant-garde voices reshaping the future of Indian fashion.
At the centre of this narrative is Anurag Gupta, whose eponymous label, Label Anurag Gupta, approaches fashion as far more than garment-making. Since its inception in 2018, the label has positioned itself at the intersection of art, science, and craft—developing a research-led design language defined by sculptural silhouettes, engineered textiles, and an architectural sensibility that feels both cerebral and visually arresting.
Gupta’s work consistently draws from disciplines beyond fashion—architecture, visual art, and scientific inquiry—translating these influences into pieces that examine movement, structure, and surface. Through experimental textiles, unconventional embellishment, and precision-driven construction, the label navigates the space between wearable design and conceptual expression.
In an era where global fashion is increasingly anchored in conversations around innovation and sustainability, the brand’s approach feels both relevant and quietly radical. By merging traditional craft knowledge with material experimentation, Label Anurag Gupta aligns itself with a growing movement of Indian designers expanding the vocabulary of contemporary fashion.
Collection Note: The New Primitive
Presented at Lakmé Fashion Week 2026, The New Primitive draws conceptual energy from the work of Utagawa Kuniyoshi, reinterpreting his dynamic visual narratives through a contemporary, architectural lens. The collection builds a layered dialogue between motion, form, and structure—where fluidity is translated into controlled design language.
At its core lies a newly developed natural-fibre textile, refined through plasma technology. This advanced treatment enhances durability, structural memory, and surface responsiveness, while preserving the fabric’s organic tactility. The intervention of technology remains deliberate and restrained, supporting the integrity of the material rather than overwhelming it.
Engineered jacquards further this narrative, transforming Kuniyoshi’s sense of movement into intricate, structured pattern systems. These textiles carry a quiet complexity—where fluid visual energy is translated into dimensional surfaces with depth and precision.
Positioned as a low-water, pesticide-conscious alternative within the cotton ecosystem, the material also reflects a responsible fibre direction, contributing to more sustainable agricultural practices and livelihoods.
The silhouettes mirror this balance. Architectural yet inherently wearable, they are defined by clean geometry, reinforced construction, and a distinct sense of depth. Strategic deconstruction reveals the inner framework of each piece, creating a nuanced interplay between organic movement and engineered precision.
Tectonic Synthesis ultimately emerges as the foundation of the collection—a considered convergence where material innovation and nature exist in a state of deliberate, thoughtful equilibrium.
