Suneet Varma Brings the Spirit of Kashi to the Runway

Inspired by Varanasi’s cultural heritage and the designer’s own creative history, the collection brought together traditional textile references, intricate embellishment, and contemporary Indian occasionwear, with Nitanshi Goel as the showstopper.

Suneet Varma’s Kashi collection drew on the history, artistry, and visual character of Varanasi, translating these references into a contemporary wardrobe. Presented at Lakmé Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI, the collection explored the relationship between Indian craftsmanship and modern silhouettes, with a focus on draping, texture, and decorative detail.

Showstopper: Nitanshi Goel

Nitanshi Goel closed the show in a rich wine-plum ensemble featuring a sculpted off-shoulder top with an asymmetrical drape and a fitted, mermaid-style skirt embellished with oversized metallic discs. The reflective details stood out against the deep colour, while the skirt’s shape added drama to the overall silhouette. Oxidised bangles completed the styling, bringing a traditional accent to the contemporary look.

A Personal Connection

The collection had roots in a visit Varma made to Banaras 32 years ago. That journey remained an important part of his creative history and inspired a cape featuring a Tree of Life motif. For Kashi, he revisited the earlier artwork, reworking it alongside elements of the city’s landscape.

This return to an idea from his own design archive gave the collection a personal dimension. Varanasi was more than a visual reference; it connected the clothes to the designer’s memories and long-standing interest in Indian art and craftsmanship.

Fabrics and Textures

The material story unfolded through draping, patterned textiles, and richly embellished surfaces. A fuchsia look paired a draped satin skirt with a sculptural off-shoulder wrap and a patterned sleeveless jacket. Elsewhere, a gold bandhani tunic appeared with black sequined trousers and a dramatic cape-like overlay made from layered, disc-shaped embellishments.

The contrast between fluid fabrics and elaborate surface details gave the looks their visual character. Embroidery and tassels added texture, while sequins and metallic elements brought light and dimension to selected pieces.

Published coverage identifies satin, bandhani, sequins, embroidery, and decorative embellishments within the collection. A complete, verified list of fabric compositions was not available, so materials such as silk, brocade, or georgette should not be attributed to the collection without further confirmation.

Traditional Craft, Modern Form

The silhouettes ranged from sleek jackets and tunics to dhoti skirts, trousers, and draped saris. Each offered a different approach to Indian dressing, balancing familiar traditional forms with contemporary proportions and styling.

The collection’s appeal lay in its contrasts: fluid drapes alongside structured pieces, patterned textiles against reflective embellishment, and traditional craft references presented through modern occasionwear. The result was a varied wardrobe that drew on Indian design traditions without relying on a single silhouette or decorative technique.

A Palette of Kashi

Colour helped establish the collection’s mood. Deep reds, wine and plum tones, black, and brighter accents gave the looks visual depth, while metallic embellishments created contrast against darker shades. The palette also recalled the changing light and atmosphere associated with the Ganges, strengthening the connection to Varanasi.

Rather than relying on one defining motif, the presentation developed its identity through the interplay of colour, texture, embellishment, and silhouette.

Craft in Contemporary Fashion

Kashi brought together personal history and a contemporary approach to Indian occasionwear. Its references to Banaras, the return of the Tree of Life artwork, and the emphasis on surface detailing connected the collection to craft and memory, while the range of silhouettes kept the clothes relevant to modern dressing.

For Varma, the collection offered an opportunity to revisit an enduring source of inspiration through a fresh creative lens. It also showed how traditional Indian textiles and craftsmanship can continue to inform contemporary fashion, not as static references to the past, but as living elements of design.