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The ethereal Jamdani weave for the “Chaand” collection from Gaurang presented by 6Degree was undoubtedly a great ode to the textile as well as the traditional Indian drape.

The inspiration was the beautiful moonrise and its dazzling beams that are adored the world over when the night sets in.

Key Elements

 Beauty of the saris was enhanced with the clever selection of myriad colours, weaves and embroidery.

 Fashion Story

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Throughout the pandemic, Gaurang and his team of expert and dedicated weavers worked at home on their looms and created a grand timeless presentation of Jamdaani Heritage saris.

The Jamdani weave is considered the most complex technique in the country and the line displayed the creations from Dhaka, Benares, Kota, Srikakulam, Uppada, Venkatgiri, Kashmir and Paithan.

The Jamdani from each region revealed its characteristic look as the specialty from Kashmir reflected the serene tranquil nature of the valley. Detailing was visible from Paithan, while creative craftsmanship was seen in the weaves from Benaras. The merger of tradition and modernity came alive in the collection from Kota, while the weaving combination of Khadi from Srikakulam, luxury from Uppada and Venkatgiri, brought a hypnotic touch to the line up.

The models walked through the show to the melodious singing of ace singer, Anup Jalota and the glamorous show of Jamdani sarees ended with Taapsee Pannu in a gorgeous weave with a wide floral border.

 Gaurang on his Collection

 “This collection is a reflection of human creativity in a textile medium, which continues to intrigue, inspire and magically glides you into a world beyond fashion, a world of romance and timeless sophistication.”

It was the grand opening of the FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week by couturier Tarun Tahiliani wherein he unveiled his extravagant collection which comprised often diverse capsule lines for Autumn/Winter 2021. The digital preview which was unveiled on October 5th was showcased through a special film that had been commissioned for the occasion in a beautiful modern Indian bungalow recently designed and built in Delhi.

The new-season line-up was presented at a difficult time,that had not only upended our lives but the way we dress up as well.

Key Elements

·         Imaginative, vividly coloured, and designed to showcase Tarun’s signature drapes with a contemporary twist, the ace couturier unveiled the collection as a digital and a physical show,which married his craft-rich aesthetics with a refined approach

·         Effortless fluidity and timelessness of Indian crafts bringing a contemporary touch to these classic traditional crafts, Tarun selected fabrics like organza, silk, brocade, tulle, raw silk and then added crushed chanderi for more variety

Fashion Story

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A multiverse of inspiration, the AW ‘21 collection was a compendium of time-tested craft techniques brought to the forefront as mini capsule collections –Molten Haveli, Temple Mauli, Pichwai, Chikankari, Pakeezagi, Divine Drapes, Shesh Mahal, Ragrez, Brocade and Bridalas part of the larger showcase which was ‘The Reunion’.

Celebrating deep tones of reds, greens and golds, Molten Haveli took a deep-dive into jaali patterns, where the luminous tones played with light and shadow while highlighting the intricacy of each manipulation by means of cascading lehengas designed for intimate celebrations. Another collection celebrating the majestic colours was Rangrez, wherein thousands of meters of woven brocade strips were cut out and applied on different forms. Inspired by the auspicious looks from the scene outside Badrinath temple along with the Rabari craft, Temple Mauli was an expression of an eye-catching, vivid colour palette created with the help of textiles like organza, silk, and brocade. This was showcased in an array of wide-ranging silhouettes like lehengas, kurtas, shararas, conceptual saris, gilets, and capes, soaked in a multitude of motifs.

Moving from Badrinath to Rajasthan, the Pichwai collection took inspiration from the ancient Indian paintings of the state,which depictedmonochromatic scenes of the Raasleela and Tahiliani’s traditional motifs from peacocks to cows and lotuses. The Chikankari capsule was reminiscent of the tomb of I’timād-ud-Daulah in Agra, whose latticed carvings and inlay work formed the basis of themotifs. Lastly, the bridal capsule saw the traditional bridal reds along with the renowned beiges and pastels which have formed the backbone of many collections by the designer.

Tarun Tahiliani

“Having seen all that got produced at the India Couture Week, it was great to come back to Indian fashion, which had also taken a back seat during the pandemic full of sweatpants and easy-breezy living. With this presentation we showcased our collection of draped evening lehengas, occasion-wear and bridal looks with a serious modern twist.”

He further added that the Autumn-Winter ’21 show, The Reunion, which took place as a physical show on the 7^th of October, was aimed at bringing back a night of revelry and fun. “It was an invitation to a sundowner where we met loved ones again, and celebrated our togetherness, our souls and our lives”.

Sunil Sethi, Chairman FDCI said

 “The TarunTahiliani label is one of the most pioneering labels in India. It has been an absolute pleasure to have the master courtier showcase his latest work at the joint phygital edition of FDCI and Lakmé Fashion Week. There couldn’t have been a better way to kickstart the on-ground, live showcases.”

 Jaspreet Chandok, Head RISE Fashion and Lifestyle said

 “Tarun has always set an unparalleled benchmark with all of his showcases. We couldn’t have been happier to have his latest collection kickstart our physical showcases at the Jio World Convention Centre.”

As an exclusive pre-launch initiative, and as a precursor to global scale marquee events, the guests of the Opening show got a sneak-preview and experience of the Jio World Convention Centre (JWCC) in Mumbai’s commercial hub Bandra-Kurla Complex.  Jio World Convention Centre has been envisioned by Mrs. Nita Ambani, the founder and head of India’s largest corporate foundation and initiator of world class efforts in fields like education, healthcare, sports and the arts.

Day Two at the FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week closed with The MXS label by Monisha Jaising and Shweta Bachchan Nanda making its debut in a grand fashion. The designing duo was all set to dress the fashion forward, fashionistas in their vibrant fun line inspired by the 80’s disco and street wear looks.

Key Elements

·         The pop culture of the 80’s brought the colors in a range of sorbet and electric shades

·         100 percent silk juxtaposed with ribbed knits, while polo pique, brushed Luper knit and lycra added to the variety

·          Leotards and fashion silhouettes  reminiscent from American TV shows like Who’s the Boss, Miami Vice and Three’s Company

Fashion Story

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There was a mix of relaxed, casual sporty wear, along with athleisure touches and some elegant cocktail hour dressing.

Denim was given shimmer and glitter with fringes, while hoodies with cargo pants and bustiers brought in a dressy trio. Jumpsuits were easy offerings for comfort wear, while a few gym wear options will appeal to the figure conscious ladies. The purple ‘V’ plunged neckline kaftan, the red glittering shirt with matching pants and the cape-sleeved jacket with bustier and pants will move stylishly into after dark glamour. The final sharply tailored, white with black pin dots suit was the perfect end to the superb 80’s looks unveiled by the designing duo.

The on-ground show was an exclusive pre-launch initiative, for guests of FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week who experienced the world-class Jio World Convention Centre (JWCC) in Mumbai’s commercial hub Bandra-Kurla Complex.

The collection pays tribute to artisans who contribute directly or indirectly to the fashion industry. In the past it was the Dhobi and Rafugar who drove Mohammed’s collection story.

 Key Elements

• His collection of cotton fabrics in just monochrome black and white has boxy, free flowing dramatic silhouettes
•  The fabric is developed with the Cot weaving technique  and is  the focal point of the collection

Fashion Story

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This season at the FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week the artisans who weave the Cot inspire his collection quaintly titledमेरी प्यारी खाट. These amazing experts along with the Cot खाट were seen in every home during the days gone by.

Delving into his childhood, when he spent beautiful days at his grandmother’s home sleeping on the Cot on the roof, Mohammed remembers those memorable times at night and turns them into inspirations for his creations.

 Mohammed Mazhar on his Collection

 “Very excited to be presenting my collection- मेरी प्यारी खाट at FDCI X LFW which is all about my childhood memories and it’s an untold story of cot weavers. At the same time this collection is a tribute to cot weavers as well as my Nani (grandmother). I believe that More speed towards production time means that the world is going to face more environmental challenges.”

WazirX NFT Marketplace joined hands with FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week and introduced Non-Fungible Tokens (NFTs) by India’s leading couturier Manish Malhotra.

 Non-Fungible Tokens have captivated the world of fashion and art, creating a market where digital versions of garments and accessories are linked to unique blockchain hosted tokens. This partnership marked the entrance of India’s fashion industry in digital assets – a step towards integrating tech innovations with fashion via blockchain technology.

An interesting and informative discussion took place to highlight the importance of the collaboration for this programme. The panellists for the discussion were moderated by Sujata Assomull, Journalist and Author. On the panel were Manish Malhotra, India’s leading couturier, revivalist and costume designer, Jaspreet Chandok, Head RISE Fashion and Lifestyle, Nischal Shetty, CEO & Founder WazirX and Vishakha Singh, VP at WazirX NFT Marketplace.The panellists broadly discussed what exactly are NFTs as well as the Lakmé Fashion Week’s partnership with WazirX NFT Marketplace. In addition, the talking points included, how NFTs can be a parallel revenue generation medium for artists, the role of NFTs in revolutionizing Indian fashion.

 Manish Malhotra created 5 exclusive NFTs on the WazirX NFT Marketplace in collaboration with FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week which were launched and sold within seconds, a record time.

Deepika Padukone saree sketch:

Style and substance, Manish Malhotra’s hand-drawn sketch is one of the most popular royal
blue saree worn by Deepika Padukone, who played the role of ‘Naina Talwar’ in the movie ‘Yeh
Jawani Hai Diwani.’ It reflects the character’s transition phase from self-inhibited to free-spirited.
The best seller Manish Malhotra Saree of 2013 continues to stay relevant in every girl’s
traditional wardrobe to date.

Alia Bhatt sketch:

Chikankari is the oldest form of art in India, an embroidery introduced by Nur Jahan. Manish
Malhotra’s hand-drawn sketch illustrates the revival of the craft in its modernized form by the
women of Mijwan Welfare Society, an NGO founded by Shabana Azmi, Namrata Goyal, and
Manish Malhotra to extend support to female artisans by generating education and employment.
The ace actor Alia Bhatt adorned this beautiful creation in 2018 and took the internet by storm
as she made heads turn in Chikankari’s demure glamour

Kareena Kapoor outfit :

Even the stars fall for you. Manish Malhotra created a custom-made constellation sketch for
megastar Kareena Kapoor to make a starry appearance on the red carpet of HT’s Most Stylish
Awards, 2019. The GIF illustrates the merge of traditional art and modern technology

 Manish Malhotra

“NFTs are a complete gamechanger and absolutely something that the Indian industry needs to consider and move towards. Realizing my NFT’s got sold in seconds, I was grateful to accomplish this technological breakthrough. I can see so many new possibilities emerge for artisans and the creator’s community. I’m looking forward to further explore the extent of the new-age technology.”

FDCI Men’s Edit presented Troy Costa, India’s ace men’s wear designer, who unveiled his “Avido Tourista” collection for men who long to travel after the no-travel ban.

Key Elements

•  Classic and simple cuts, vibrant colors story and relaxed silhouettes

Fashion Story

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The inspiration for Troy Costa was the stylish male, who is a Mumbaikar; from the city that is a world in itself and spreads love. The clothes were aimed at dressing up stylishly with a lot of attitudes thrown in, but in an almost casual nonchalant manner.

Troy Costa on his Collection

 “Travel has always been a prerequisite for a Troy Costa man. The modernist Troy Costa man is the one who is à la mode every season. He is an avid traveller and a fashion expressionist. The past few months have mirrored us on how one should celebrate every single day as Tomorrow isn’t promised. Live laugh, Love, Now!”

Commenting on the showcase Sunil Sethi, Chairman FDCI

 “FDCI has a long-standing relationship with Troy Costa. It is a force to reckon with in the fashion industry and it is our absolute pleasure to be able to have him showcase the latest work at the joint, phygital edition of FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week.”

The “Liquid Love” collection by Resham Karmchandani and Sanya Suri for ‘The Pot Plant’ label presented by FDCI x Pearl Academy was all about setting an individual, style statement and loving it too for the coming season.

 Key Elements

• For their “Liquid Love” collection at the FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week they tapped into some unharnessed fashion potential that will appeal to all ages, genders and sizes
• Designers offered gender fluid silhouettes that revealed fine finishing and impeccable tailoring
• Known to offer some great options in separates; the designing pair brought ensembles that would work ideally as mix and match possibilities. The designing duo also offered a soothing, fashionable resonance to the collection.

 Fashion Story

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The black and white jacket with Bandhani and minute stitch detailing was a sure winner, while the electric blue unisex jacket with bursts of fuchsia Bandhani florets and dots was a real scene-stealer. Yellow and white came together for another stunning, draped creation that was belted with great pizzazz.

The brown, sheer, organza tunic with cubic Bandhani motifs will surely cause a fashion tussle between HIM and HER, as it was an ideal gender-neutral option. Gender fluidity was apparent for the button less jacket, shirt with placement print and soft robe with a slit skirt in red and indigo. The long-sleeved, belted maxi, black and white trench coat and the 50/50 print for the ink blue blouse and pant, as well as the fuchsia, printed jumpsuit, will move effortlessly through wardrobes.

 Quotes

Chairman FDCI, Sunil Sethi   

 “The FDCI has always believed in nurturing and promoting designers who understand the changing needs of a dynamic market by carving an eco-friendly approach. Organic handlooms merged with comfort will pave the path for a future brimming with possibilities. We have been partners with Pearl Academy and their alumni have always shown promise, this year too, they will combine two potent forces—vision and aesthetics.” 

Aditi Srivastava, President Pearl Academy

 “We are delighted to see our ex-students Sanya Suri, and Resham Karmchandani of The Pot Plant illustrate that classic pieces are the only way forward. Pearl Academy has been instrumental in shaping the lives of many students over the years and has made consistent efforts to enrich their experience with practical abilities which has become a powerful tool in the fashion space.”  

Cocccon’s  “Abundant Paradise” 

 “Abundant Paradise” was inspired by the humble life of tribes in Jharkhand, the native state of Chandra Prakash Jha. The ideas revolved around the sisal plants, culture, livestock and the presence of elephants. It was a playful, experimental look at fashion, when Bauhaus merged with indigenous art forms and the biodiversity of Jharkhand.

Fashion Story

 The Cocccon label has now become one of the most renowned names in the world of fashion, as a truly stylish brand in Germany that follows the sustainable path of organic peace silk, colors and prints.

Unfolding a look that was pure luxury, the brand showcased luxe night and home wear, along with formal suits, very stylish dresses and then added comfy street wear for relaxed dressing. There were more interesting add-ons to the look, with scarves, saris and even pillowcases to match the dreamy bedtime style statements.

The major emphasis of the collection was on organically produced peace silk; when silkworms are allowed to turn into beautiful butterflies. Therefore, the Seri-culture was maintained with rigid fair trade and organic practices at all times.

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Cutouts appeared strategically for a yellow one-shoulder creation with a wired detailing, or for a textured neon green body suit and at other times for impressive sleeves. Going for some OTT silhouettes, the pale blue creation with an angular sleeve and wrap detailing had an extraordinary visual appeal, while the simple plunging, “V” neckline, silver creation ensured classic sophistication. The boxy, white jacket with pastel appliqués teamed with textured, pleated, billowing pants brought peace silk in a glam avatar. Comfortable kimono style robes and belted pyjama sets set the mood of the show.

For men’s wear, making a fashion impact was the orange and fuchsia abundantly tasseled white jacket teamed with shorts, the basic ice blue shirt and trouser combo and the simple zipped up white shirt. A mix of textures for a coat with shredding and patchwork was the focal point, while a white floor length version caused considerable drama.

Key Elements

The collection is totally plastic free, materials like bamboo and cane replaced them, while the patterns followed a zero waste policy. Waste from the side cuts of designs turned into sisal patterns, while silk fur was used in place of animal furs. Even the dyes and the prints followed the low zero waste path for the collection.

Women’s wear was more extravagant as layers of pronged, 3D, origami-like, detailing covered sleeves, trousers, asymmetric dresses and even complete minis in an unconventional form.

 Chandra Prakash Jha on his Collection

 “We (Georg & Prakash) are very thankful to FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week for providing us this platform on the sustainable fashion day and enabling us to showcase how sustainable fashion can be cool, crazy and sexy at the same time- Sustainability is the new Black. Our Fashion video is created at the world-famous Emil Schumacher Museum of Hagen, Germany. Emil Schumacher was a rebellion in Arts, who used abstract as the new normal in German Art scene” .

The “New Beginnings” line was all about celebrating the joie de vivre with a clean white slate as an inspiration. Aimed at the woman who celebrates life and self-love, the ensembles were feminine, flouncy and at times delicately flirty. Lustrous silk and satin played a perfect melodious fabric symphony, while myriad colours danced on the surfaces.

 Key Elements

 ·         Embroidery was the star focal point, but in a delicate but radiant format

·         Frills and ruffles to highlight the utterly feminine line Colours, floral, prints and appliqués

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Fashion Story

The deep red lehenga encrusted with 3D appliqués with the seductively, ruffled off shoulder choli. Cropped biker’s embroidery jacket with a lehenga and another long-sleeved cropped zippered creation were eye-catchers. Boleros over bustiers, some with cut-out long-sleeves and an embellished waistcoat inspired choli, brought a fun element to the collection, while the will-powered gown made a grand entry. Saris were edged with fluttering 3D flowers and looked amazing in their multi coloured hues.

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Paras and Shalini of Geisha Designs on their Collection…

“New Beginnings is our Festive Occasion-wear collection. It celebrates freedom, a break away from traditional attire but befitting special ceremonial/celebratory occasions. Dresses, Saris and Skirt-sets have a holiday/sporty styling to add some color and emotion to the otherwise monotony of Life. We are excited about the new collection and its showcase. The virtual/ film format, while challenging, has opened new avenues to explore storytelling- in terms of choosing locales and playing with cinematography, music, etc. We are loving it!  It’s a beautiful approach to reaching out to a much wider audience than was possible through the traditional runway format and hopefully the spectators find it visually delightful and engaging. Fashion Weeks have evolved over the years – in terms of both quality and Content. This podium offers such a diverse display of products and the best of indigenous produce in apparel truly celebrating Make in India and Made in India. FDCI &Lakmé Fashion Week continuing their partnership in showcasing Pan India participation biannually, despite all odds that the pandemic has wreaked, lends a purpose and we hope the effort translates into wider consumption and business for all the stakeholders”-