Designer Shani Himanshu and Mia Morikawa of 11.11 in 2009, showcased a line of relaxed shapes, which are designed with an emphasis on equitable supply chain network of climate beneficial indigenous plant and animal-based non-violent Desi yarn for knitters and weavers.
The Process
THE PROCESS
The label traced the path of the creations from ‘Seed to Stitch’ and from ‘Soil to Garment’ with the launch of an innovative technology with the aid of an NFC button that offers the potential of radical transparency in every garment that is produced by the brand.
It was an interesting presentation that the film revealed about the expert art of transforming the cotton into yarn, which is the building block of woven and knitted fabric, hand spinning, (and age-old practice of transforming fibre into yarn), plying, which was then carefully dyed in shades of indigo, allowed to dry and them beautifully knitted or crocheted into a stylish pullover. The film also highlighted the effort of women hand spinners and the importance of their skills in the international value chain.
THE TECHNICAL PART
This is so amazing…there is an attachment of the NFC button under a knitted cover, which when the garment was opened from its organic packing, would allow the buyer to locate the exact destination of the spinner, dyer, weaver and artisan who knitted or crocheted the apparel, through the mobile phone app that will provide the perfect history of the garment from ‘Seed to Stitch’.
The app created by 11.11 will inform the buyer with a Meet the Maker video, as well as images of the processes through which the garment went through before it arrived in the hands of the buyer. This amazing technology also showed the various artisans who are responsible and their contributions towards the end result of the stitched apparel.
Fashion Open Studio is Fashion Revolution’s showcasing initiative comprising of presentations, talks, and workshops with emerging designers, established trailblazers and major players, to celebrate the people and processes behind the process of making our clothes. When designers open up their studios to the public it creates a space for honest conversation, transparency and accountability. It also gives designers an opportunity to share their innovative and creative solutions to some of the urgent social and environmental challenges facing the industry today. Lakmé Fashion Week joined hands with Fashion Open Studio to highlight the work that goes behind the conscious designer label 11.11/Eleven Eleven by Shani Himanshu and Mia Morikawa in effort to make supply chain transparency an important conversation.
With the hand-woven textiles as the base of the collection, Amit Wadhwa creatively ensured his collection “RE-image-IN” for men and women, spelt not only timeless clothing but was also fashionably comfortable. Devoting his designing skills to just Khadi, Amit went on the conscious clothing path but aimed at the festive wear season. The garments for men and women were perfectly visualised to give a fashionable balance between craft and culture.
Design Aesthetics
For the male dresser, layering played a major role as Khadi and tissue were innovatively used for jackets. It was the emphasis to layering that gave men’s wear its unique fashion direction.
For the women, Amit offered an assortment of beautiful, Khadi, handcrafted saris with stripes and varying weaves. But it was the choli that Amit emphasised with unconventional additions. While they were either with long/short sleeves or halter styles, he added stylish elongated bibs or topped the choli with a buttonless, hip length, waistcoat. There were also practical styles with Peter Pan or shirt collars that will delight the high-powered women executives on the go.
Color Card
Mix of festive hues as green, pink, and blue were merged with black, brown, and grey.
KAVERI
Kaveri presented the “Cocoon” collection that was fashionable, a symphony of contemporary design, flow and drape to flatter the body.
Design Aesthetics
The fabrics, hand-printed with fine thread work highlighted with gold and silver metallic ink tinges. Fluttering dragonflies and butterflies’ motifs added a discreet touch to the sheer scarves, often attached to the garment to follow the cocoon line philosophy. The gentle collars flowed around the neck and at times shoulders, while the asymmetrical hemlines
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Designer Duo Bharat & Reshma launched their Festive and Wedding collection at the all new launched store in North Delhi recently. In the presence of renowned singer Jass Manak, the designer duo also launched their luxury studio. Having worked very hard for a long time on the studio’s design, Bharat says that they were clear from the very beginning that what they wanted was a creative Studio that would do justice to their remarkable collection of outfits.
Reshma Grover, Singer Jass Manak with Bharat Grover
The studio comprises a variety of Menswear collection for weddings, events, parties & festivities. With the luxurious outfits spread over tastefully done four floors, one is spoilt for choice & there is something uniquely suited to everyone’s taste.
Newly Launched Store H-2 By Bharat & Reshma
Bharat & Reshma’s designs have been worn & appreciated by various bollywood actors and TV artists like Sonu Sood, Randeep Hooda, Vidyut Jammwal, Maniesh Paul etc. With their plush new studio and collection already being a hit amongst all age groups, the talented duo is all set with their latest trend setting creations.
The National Diamond Council (NDC), returns to continue its association with India’s premier fashion platform, Lakmé Fashion Week, to support its digital-first, season fluid edition on 20th October 2020. The NDC aims to strengthen its offers through the third season of its partnership with Lakmé Fashion Week.
The National Diamond Council, previously known as the Diamond Producers Association, aims to become the go-to digital publisher for innovative content covering all that is new and exciting in the industry. The new digital platform www.onlynaturaldiamonds.in focuses on inspiring and educating consumers globally about the values and heritage of natural diamonds as well as promoting their desirability. With that in mind, NDC will be supporting Lakmé Fashion Week and sharing exciting content from the world of luxury and fashion for its consumers. It will unravel the unique place and love for diamonds by the fashion world through the lens of stylists, models, and other talents of the industry.
Inspired by heritage and deep-rooted in Indian culture, the collection took the audience through a trip down Sanjay’s memory lane, beckoned with fond memories of Rajasthan. Part nostalgic and part re-imagined for the future as he was inspired by the Rajasthani folklore, the new festive collection was a contrast and harmony of colors, textiles and silhouettes.
Design Aesthetics
Use of bold colors and combinations of the region’s multiplicity of layers which lives across colors, textiles and motifs, The central motif – the peacock – dances amidst strong bold lines of textile and embroidery. Bandhej techniques gave this traditional craft a distinct contemporary focus.
A craft-based initiative by IMG Reliance where the designer labels, Abraham & Thakore, Rajesh Pratap Singh for Satya Paul, Urvashi Kaur, Payal Khandwala, Anavila and Suket Dhir showcased collections that highlighted crafts like ikat, block prints, Jamdaani, brocade, Khatwa and Shibori techniques.The second phase of this initiative by IMG Reliance will bring the six designers and more, for a 5-6 months project that will be a collaboration between designers and clusters. The purpose is to support marginalised craft clustered and those heavily impacted by the pandemic by generating livelihood opportunities for the artisans. The collections developed will either be retailed with via an e-commerce platform. IMG Reliance will partner with NGO Creative Dignity, a movement that has brought together creative producers, practitioners, and professionals to revitalise the Indian artisans post Covid-19 and identify most affect groups.
ABRAHAM & THAKORE-The Designers gave emphasis to a capsule collection of block printed garments.The geometric of dots in varying sizes in combination with fine lines brought forth a unique hand block print story that created a stylish impact.
COLOR CARD-Sand and Gold
Abraham and Thakore Collection Photo :Vaqaas Mansuri
Abraham and Thakore Collection Photo :Vaqaas Mansuri
· Design Aesthetics– The creative merging of modern silhouettes with Indian traditional textile hand block printing techniques raised the sartorial bar of the Abraham & Thakore collection, which had a marked festive flavour. The designer duo has been working with artisan Arun Parihar from Farrukabad, UP for years now and this consistency of work has enabled him to open his own unit in Noida where he employs more artisans.
RAJESH PRATAP SINGH FOR SATYA PAUL
Rajesh Pratap Singh showcased his version of double ikat for Satya Paul Studio in stark black and white with a sprinkling of hot colors.
Design Aesthetics-Rajesh Pratap Singh moved away from the conventional patterns of ikat and gave the traditional a very futuristic touch with the pristine creativity that was visually stunning.
ANAVILA MISHRA
It was a festive rainbow of colours in textiles that Anavila Mishra unveiled… Festivities were celebrated from the Anavila Studios with the “Dhanak” collection this season, which means rainbow in Sanskrit. The definition of the word, which was a “mystical pathway between sunshine and rain that is the harbinger of giggly laughs” that proved to be the perfect inspiration for Anavila’s line that projected visuals of strength and light. Anavila has worked with 12 artisan families directly, spread across 5 villages near Dumka – namely Jiyajor, Mohanbuna, Gabharna, Kakania & Lakda.
Design Aesthetics-Linen was woven with fine zari and khatwa work.Silhouettes were easy and comfortable
Anavila Collection Photo :Vaqaas Mansuri
Anavila Collection Photo :Vaqaas Mansuri
Color Card-Jewel tones of rich garnet, serene citrine, impressive jade, attractive amethyst, royal emerald, terrific topaz, intriguing sapphire and beautiful rose quartz.
PAYAL KHANDWALAL
Her limited edition of just ten saris, handwoven in silk Jamdaani. She explored a craft that was typical in fine muslin on handlooms. But this time, she rethought the context into a new avenue but stayed true to her colour-blocked silks, traditional motifs in floral or geometric shapes and added an exaggerated and modern version of the wildflower print story.
Design Aesthetics-Payal showcased in each sari a meticulous format, when two-inch strips of designs are placed under the loom with myriad dots in watercolour added to the woven warp, to recreate the pattern on the yarn. The weaving done by wooden shuttles according to guidelines had a silver metallic yarn with the assistance of a separate metallic needle. Payal is working with the artisans of Phulia region in West Bengal for these saris.
· Color Card- Use of Jewel tones. The mix of ruby red with dark ink gave the dual-toned sari a luxurious appeal, A bright shade of parrot green or electric blue was the radiant backdrop for the white bouquet of flowers .Payal merged red with fuchsia.
URVASHI KAUR
Urvashi Kaur’s “Tahul” was a mix of relaxed androgynous apparels that consisted of Tiered and shirt dresses with the over sized silhouettes . The multi-layers had many mix and match choices for both sexes in a sheer and opaque format for a stylish appeal.Men’s wear featured a concealed placket, boxy jacket with Shibori insets on sleeves and body-worn on a matching shirt while the linear striped pants displayed bold insets and patch pocket with the craft.
Design Aesthetics-A fascinating display of craft, textiles, construction and detailing.Detailing created a strong accent in the form of micro pleating and hand blocks. Urvashi selected handwoven organic cotton, sheer Kota silk, Jamdaani and then brought in sheer noils that had inserts of intricate stitch line texturing.The collection showcased the beauty of Shibori tie-dye patterns.
Men’s wear featured a concealed placket, boxy jacket with Shibori insets on sleeves and body-worn on a matching shirt while the linear striped pants displayed bold insets and patch pocket with the craft.
URWASHI KAURs Photo : Vaqaas Mansuri
Designer URWASHI KAURs Photo : Vaqaas Mansuri
Designer URWASHI KAURs Photo : Vaqaas Mansuri
COLOR CARD-Grey with indigo and then gradually traversed to winter sage as well as oak which were merged with ochre green and charcoal.
SUKET DHIR
Celebrating the ‘Nature Within’ concept, Suket introduced a mélange of varied animal prints that lit up the landscape on the handwoven silk brocades, which were created instead of the conventional motifs of Maharanis, Maharajas and Sakhis. For more elegant style directions, the construction was boxy, for the grey brocade 2-button jacket that would be ideal wear for the party circuit with a pair of matching shorts.
Suket Dhirs Photo :Vaqaas Mansuri
Suket Dhirs Photo :Vaqaas Mansuri
Design Aesthetics-Suket Dhir gave a creative fashion dimension to festive wear but kept the rich fabric brocade base very contemporary in vibrant hues and motifs. Needless to say, Suket’s exquisite brocades some from the skills handloom weavers of Banaras.
A collection of saris, which brought the legend’s romantic narrative to life with the extraordinary weavers’ skills, inspired by ‘Taramati” an artisanal ode to the legendary courtesan who dazzled the Seventh Sultan of Golconda, Abdulla Qutub Shah.
Design Aesthetics
Use of Intricate ikat, Kanchi, Patan and then moved to reinvent the glory of Kota, Uppada, Banarasi, Kani, Venkatagiri and Paithani in the traditional jamdaani weave. Merging of complex designs created by master weavers ,enhanced by surface embroidery in hues of beige, wine, green, yellow, rich purple and pink.
The weaves were an imaginative blend of silk, gold and silver threads.The intricate crafts that further highlighted the weaves, included Aari, Chikankari, petit-point, Kasuti, Shibori, Kantha, Kutch embroidery, Parsi Gara work that were juxtaposed onto the textiles.
Lakmé Fashion Week and United Nations Environment programme
Circular Design Challenge presented the winning “Malai” collection “Malai”, the accessories and apparel collection, made a stunning impression among sustainable fashion enthusiasts. Susmith Chempodil and Zuzana Gombosova of “Malai” won the 2nd Circular Design Challenge at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2020, their collection was inspired by the life cycle and ecology of the coconut palm was truly a unique concept.
Highlights
The collection was a grand expo of how bio-composite material, based on Bacterial Cellulose grown on water from mature coconuts and natural fibres, could be an alternative to leather for fashionable accessories and garments. The core of “Malai’s” collection was coconut circularity and sustainability. The accessories were designed from malai bio composite and supporting materials like waxed canvas. The addition of fabrics like organic cotton, banana jersey, hemp canvas and second-hand Mundu fabrics from South India gave the collection its natural character.
Design Aesthetics
Detailing for the accessories was intense and revolved around handcrafted straps and handles, while the clean simple bag shapes had shells made from malai and inners in waxed canvas. The other Design elements are Braiding along with the use of blueprints as well as lacing.
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